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Aquamarine in Fine and Faux Jewelry

March 19, 2025
in Antique
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If you happen to’re celebrating a birthday in March, you most likely already know that your birthstones are bloodstone and aquamarine. For the uninitiated, bloodstone ranges from partially clear to opaque inexperienced with, as you could have surmised, dots of pink due to the iron oxide operating all through. Whereas it’s definitely an intriguing stone and mentioned to carry protecting properties for the wearer, many individuals lately gravitate to the blue fantastic thing about aquamarine relating to buying a chunk of birthstone jewellery.

The title aquamarine was derived way back primarily based on its oceanlike colour. The purported properties of this clear blue stone embody preserving tough seas at bay from a nautical standpoint, but it surely allegedly does the identical to encourage clean crusing by means of a wedding. That could be as a result of its popularity for soothing the psyche. On a associated observe, it’s the recommended anniversary reward to mark nineteen years of wedded bliss. Since aquamarine is the blue model of beryl (inexperienced beryl equates to emerald, and pink beryl is named morganite), it’s mentioned, identical to bloodstone, to safeguard the wearer and impart power.

In keeping with the Gemological Affiliation of America (GIA), aquamarine has been mined in lots of places all over the world. These embody Brazil, Pakistan, Africa, China, Russia, and even the US, in Colorado, the place it’s the state gemstone, together with different spots. Superb examples belong to museum collections, together with a 1,298-carat stone gifted to Eleanor Roosevelt in 1936 by President Getúlio Vargas of Brazil and held within the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library.

Vintage Jewellery That includes Aquamarine

Simply how far do aquamarines return in jewellery historical past? Carvers in historic Greece and Rome used them to create intaglios and for engravings for jewellery. In actual fact, seafarers typically wore talismans with the likeness of Poseidon etched into aquamarines to maintain them secure.

When these alluring stones had been integrated into jewellery through the Georgian and Victorian eras, most of them had been a fairly pale blue-green colour that naturally occurred (many fashionable aquamarines are handled with warmth to make them a real blue with none inexperienced tint). Nevertheless, vintage jewellery lovers operating throughout aquamarines set into Georgian jewellery certainly take into account themselves fortunate as they’re now thought of fairly arduous to seek out. They’re normally items made from gold and could also be embellished with cannitille work (a sort of metalworking method akin to filigree) that was in style within the early 1800s.

In Victorian jewellery, aquamarines had been typically mixed with seed pearls, diamonds, and typically different lesser-value gem stones like garnets. The kinds normally corresponded with what was in style through the interval. Early- to mid-Victorian jewellery tends to be heavier, with jewellery changing into increasingly more delicate towards the flip of the twentieth century. These stones remained in style in Edwardian jewellery by means of the 1910s, mixed with diamonds and white steel filigree work with lacy touches and frilly bows within the designs. Sometimes, simulated aquamarines made from glass are additionally present in older jewellery.

Different Wonderful Jewellery Set with Aquamarine

Because the 1900s marched on, a few of the coloured gem stones utilized in Edwardian kinds carried over, so you can find aquamarine—typically referred to as “aqua” by jewelers—embellishing early artwork deco jewellery together with filigree steel work. The overarching look started to vary, although, and the kinds grew to become extra symmetrical with geometric influences as the brand new beliefs of the jazz age spilled over into all features of design. A lot of these items fall into the vintage class since they’re over 100 years outdated. Within the early Nineteen Thirties, extra vividly coloured stones like emeralds, rubies, jade, and coral dominated till the tide modified once more, shifting into the World Struggle II period.

Retro jewellery, constituted of the mid-Nineteen Thirties into the early ‘40s, noticed extra aquamarines getting used once more singularly and together with different gems like rubies. Massive emerald-cut stones had been in style on the time, and blue beryl variations had been set into every little thing from cocktail rings to superb brooches. Most of those had been crafted of yellow gold with scrolling motifs and a chunkier total look in comparison with earlier Edwardian and artwork deco kinds.

Wonderful jewelers like Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, Seaman Schepps, David Webb, and lots of others integrated essentially the most lovely aquamarines accessible into jewellery designs starting from late Eighteen Nineties artwork nouveau masterpieces to mid-century fashionable classics. These are the very best of the very best when it comes to high quality and design. Nevertheless, many reasonably priced items made by jewellery corporations like Krementz are in style with collectors as properly.

Fake Aquamarine in Costume Jewellery

As with most jewellery designs, particularly these produced from the Nineteen Thirties by means of the ‘60s through the peak of American costume jewellery manufacturing, copies of positive jewellery that includes simulated aquamarines filtered all the way down to the lots. As an example, Ciner made its personal gold-plated model of Tiffany’s “Hen on a Rock” brooch, which sits atop a glowing blue glass stone.

A number of the prettiest items utilizing mild blue stones mimicking aquamarine had been made by Trifari within the Nineteen Thirties and ‘40s. Marcel Boucher additionally designed some pretty items of retro-styled jewellery throughout this era, with emerald-cut aquamarines set in sterling silver and completed with a wash of gold since that was the mode of the day. In actual fact, the entire hottest costume jewellery corporations, like Mazer, Eisenberg, and Reja, additionally made jewellery containing stones imitating blue beryl.

Whereas Trifari and Boucher normally promote for tidy sums starting from the lots of into the hundreds, and different manufacturers like Schreiner can promote for simply as a lot, there are additionally many reasonably priced costume jewellery items to look at for holding fake aquamarines. Corporations like Coro and Florenza additionally made jewellery attractively embellished with simulated aquamarines. The excellent news is that even when unmarked items include these pale blue rhinestones, they’re normally good sellers because the colour is so charming.

Pamela Siegel is a contract author and creator who has been educating collectors for greater than twenty years. Along with three books on subjects referring to antiques and collectibles, she steadily shares her experience by means of on-line writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela can be the co-founder of Costume Jewellery Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Stylish Antiques by Pamela.

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