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How to Identify Rock Crystal in Fine and Faux Jewelry

July 30, 2024
in Antique
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An artwork deco jabot pin embellished with a carved rock crystal cat face and embellished with diamonds set in treasured steel.

My introduction to rock crystal jewellery got here early in my shopping for and promoting “profession” after I ran throughout a set within the authentic field at an property sale. This set had just a little insert inside that learn “real rock crystal.” The jewellery within the set was sparkly sufficient to fulfill my internal magpie, and in excellent situation, so I took it residence to study extra about it. Over the many years since that first rock crystal discover got here my approach, I’ve owned many extra of those pretty items and nonetheless relish discovering them.

Till I used to be researching to put in writing entries on adornment for the WorthPoint Dictionary, I didn’t notice how extensively—and superbly—rock crystal was utilized in high quality jewellery, too. I in all probability received’t ever personal a type of superb designs, however it was a deal with to find out about them as I ferreted out particulars about a number of the most revered high quality jewelers. With that in thoughts, I’ll inform you what rock crystal is and a number of the some ways it’s been used to craft attractive jewellery designs.

Rock Crystal: What It Is and Establish It

Though rock crystal could appear to be glass or lead crystal at first look, it’s truly colorless quartz. Which means it’s a naturally occurring mineral—some of the widespread on the planet. It ranks seventh on the Mohs hardness scale, making it extra sturdy than glass. The title rock crystal is rooted within the Greek phrase krystallos, which interprets to ice. In historical Greece, they believed quartz was ice that was so chilly and strong that it could not dissolve.

When faceted, the perimeters of rock crystal normally really feel sharper than these of glass, and it’s a lot colder to the contact. In reality, if you happen to maintain a strand of rock crystal beads enclosed in your hand, they may keep cool, whereas glass will heat up as you maintain it. Moreover, rock crystal will point out as quartz when examined with a gem tester, however measuring the coolness is an efficient area check to bear in mind.

Rock Crystal in Nice Jewellery

Rock crystal utilized in high quality jewellery runs the gamut from centuries-old picks to kinds produced within the twenty first century. Among the earliest examples of high quality jewellery incorporating rock crystal you would possibly run throughout take the type of Stuart Crystals. They generally have carved portraits of King Charles I, however extra typically, flat tops with aspects alongside the edges. The Georgian flat-topped variations are normally laid over gold wirework or hairwork because the forerunner to mourning jewellery. Lots of the most enjoyable designs are held in museum collections.

Later, Victorians started to favor reverse-carved intaglios crafted of rock crystal set into jewellery fabricated from karat gold, akin to rings, pins, and pendants. Frosted rock crystal was additionally carved and set into filigree lavaliers and pendants, typically with diamond gildings within the heart. These items had been widespread by means of the Thirties and had been copied extensively utilizing camphor glass as an alternative of rock crystal.

In my humble opinion, using rock crystal actually obtained attention-grabbing throughout the Thirties. Jewelers regarded for methods to include lesser-value supplies throughout the Nice Melancholy, and rock crystal, whether or not frosted or clear, labored superbly for that objective. It was carved and mixed with diamonds and different treasured gems spectacularly. Cartier made some superb items throughout this period, however different well-known jewelers like Seaman Schepps and Suzanne Belperron did as nicely. These are valued for his or her artistry greater than the sum of their elements.

For the reason that Fifties, jewelers like Tiffany & Co. and David Webb have marketed quite a few designs that includes carved rock crystal parts, together with superb rings and cuff bracelets. Van Cleef & Arpels has additionally integrated rock crystal clovers into its famed Alhambra sautoir necklaces. Extra just lately, Boucheron employed laser etching to create modern rock crystal jewellery worthy of a characteristic in Robb Report. All these creations usually promote by means of high-end public sale homes once they enter the secondary market, however wanting them up within the WorthPoint Value Information gives some fulfilling eye sweet.

Rock Crystal in Costume Jewellery

Costume jewellery items that includes rock crystal parts relationship again to the Victorian period by means of the Nineteen Forties can nonetheless be discovered at thrift shops, flea markets, and property gross sales. Victorian necklaces known as “swimming pools of sunshine” incorporate orbs of undrilled rock crystal framed in steel, normally sterling silver. You received’t run throughout these typically, however hold a watch out for them as a result of they’ll simply promote for tons of and much more in the event that they’re lengthy.

Different necklaces you might run throughout extra readily are lavalier, lariat, and negligee kinds with one to a number of faceted rock crystal beads suspended on delicate chains. These date to the Twenties and Thirties and normally promote within the $50–75 vary. Necklaces that includes full strands of rock crystal beads floor much more typically, and people promote for lower than $50 usually however are pretty to put on. Look ahead to bracelets to match and screw-back earrings, too. Many varieties of screw-back earrings are arduous to promote, however these made with dangling rock crystal parts transfer extra rapidly.

One level to recollect is that some filigree settings from this period holding frosted camphor glass are copies of earlier rock crystal items from the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, as talked about above. In case you see one presupposed to be rock crystal set in sterling or non-precious steel with a diamond simulant, there’s nothing improper with asking the vendor if it has been examined. This look was revived within the Seventies costume jewellery designs, too, so not each instance you’ll run throughout dates to the early 1900s.

Now that you already know a bit extra about high quality and fake rock crystal jewellery, benefit from the hunt for this cool materials, each actually and figuratively.

Pamela Siegel is a contract author and creator who has been educating collectors for greater than 20 years. Along with three books on subjects referring to antiques and collectibles, she incessantly shares her experience by means of on-line writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela can also be the co-founder of Costume Jewellery Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Stylish Antiques by Pamela.

WorthPoint—Uncover. Worth. Protect.



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