I keep in mind working throughout a ceramic face pin a few years in the past and pondering it appeared loads like Josephine Baker, the American-born singer, dancer, and actress who famously made a reputation for herself working in France within the Nineteen Twenties and ‘30s. I found that collectors had nicknamed these little novelty brooches “Victims of Vogue” as a result of their elaborate hats, headdresses, and trimmings created from numerous supplies to create all the things from fascinators to turbans.
I by no means discovered if any of these pins have been modeled after Baker. Nonetheless, someday later, jewellery historians revealed that an organization referred to as Elzac was liable for producing these intelligent face pins, in addition to some equally distinctive animal designs. This data was very important since none of those little cuties are marked except their unique tags from the Forties are nonetheless hooked up. Don’t worry; with a bit examine, you possibly can simply acknowledge these items and be taught which of them are likely to deliver essentially the most to the resale market. Earlier than I get to that, although, let me backtrack to some firm historical past as a result of that is an attention-grabbing one.
How Elzac Received Began
If I discussed Ruth and Elliot Handler, would you consider Mattel first, or would it not be the Barbie doll? How about Elzac? Properly, should you didn’t know the founders of these firms have been the identical, you do now. Elliot Handler’s work set this jewellery enterprise in movement within the late Thirties when, as a younger design scholar, he started experimenting with Lucite, making issues like trays and picture frames. His younger spouse Ruth inspired him to begin a enterprise from the couple’s California-based condo. She was employed by Paramount Studios then however assisted him with gross sales on her days off.
After some success with a single-pin design, based on creator Kathy Flood, who wrote Costume Jewellery Figurals, Elliot Handler started partnering with a fellow named Zach Zemby, who was already within the jewellery enterprise. They conjoined their first names, and Elzac was fashioned in 1941. Throughout a time when metals have been arduous to return as World Struggle II raged, they started by creating figurals that mixed Lucite parts with carved wooden formed like animals starting from horses and cows to birds and canines. They moved into ceramic animals and different figurals, a few of which have been additionally embellished with Lucite curlicues, wings, ears, and the like by 1943, as famous in patent information for the designs.
The fabulous face pins have been conceived when a dressmaker buddy of the Handlers named Bea Weld joined the enterprise. Elliot Handler confirmed that considered one of her first inspirations was the Forties film sensation Carmen Miranda, who typically wore elaborate headpieces piled excessive with synthetic fruit. All sorts of elaborations have been used to embellish these ceramic face pins, together with materials, leather-based, braiding, ribbon, straw, and even ruffled or twisted Lucite parts. By then, 300 employees have been producing Elzac’s novelty jewellery that offered for 85 cents every as “homosexual ceramic pin-ups” in Sears-Roebuck catalogs. Some higher-priced items offered for $4-8 every in boutiques, however a few of the Sears variations are those discovered most frequently immediately.
Each Elliot Handler and Zemby offered out to new companions in 1944 after having differing opinions. The enterprise declined after that and eventually closed in 1947, however not earlier than making an indelible mark on costume jewellery historical past since classic customers don’t really feel victimized after they add considered one of these distinctive items to a group.
The Most Priceless Elzac Designs
The actual irony about immediately’s rarities relating to costume jewellery designs made in multiples is that these items normally didn’t promote as nicely again within the day. Both that, or they have been priced out of vary for many shoppers, so that they offered in restricted numbers after they have been new.
Relating to Elzac, evaluating the designs that offered for 85 cents (about $15 in immediately’s costs when adjusted for inflation) to the items that deliver essentially the most cash immediately, a few of them overlap, however most are reasonably priced sellers that deliver from $50-100 every. Some with particularly giant headdresses manufactured from Lucite or these with further material elaborations across the face and head can deliver twice that, offered they’re in glorious form. The face paint needs to be unchipped; all the unique décor ought to nonetheless be in place, and plastic parts needs to be in pristine situation. Most are girls, however just a few male variations have been made, too.
The ceramic animals made by Elzac have a following amongst collectors as nicely. One you possibly can anticipate to promote for greater than $200 is a Three Little Bears brooch, however most deliver far much less, topping out within the $50-75 vary even when they’ve Lucite elaborations. The wooden and Lucite items usually promote for below $50, though they’ll sometimes go a bit increased.
Cautions When Attributing Elzac Items
This model used little or no metallic of their work, so I query the attribution after I see items with a swath of metallic accompanying a ceramic or Lucite aspect offered as Elzac. I additionally know many costume jewellery firms used different supplies throughout World Struggle II, so this wasn’t the one one utilizing wooden, ceramics, and plastics in novelty designs. Carved wooden and Lucite items are notably arduous to attribute accurately.
Except you’ve recognized a chunk utilizing catalog references or patent data, or what you’re promoting has the unmistakable look of a Sufferer of Vogue face—since a lot of them look very comparable with closed eyes—pegging one thing as Elzac is usually a mistake. Some sellers don’t care and add key phrases to listings simply to get consideration, however that’s dealing underhandedly should you’re promoting to somebody who doesn’t know any higher, and all of us have to begin someplace.
My humble recommendation is to do your individual analysis and follow attributing belongings you really feel fairly sure are Elzac to construct a repute as a reliable vendor.
Pamela Siegel is a contract author and creator who has been educating collectors for greater than 20 years. Along with three books on matters referring to antiques and collectibles, she steadily shares her experience by means of on-line writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela can be the co-founder of Costume Jewellery Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Stylish Antiques by Pamela.
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