Tucked among the many orchards and vineyards of the Drôme Provençale, the village of Cliousclat sits on a mild rise with breathtaking views throughout the Rhône Valley. It’s the type of place that feels effortlessly charming, with stone homes and picket shutters, shaded ruelles that invite you to wander, and a scattering of cafés and eating places the place time slows to the tempo of an extended lunch. Behind its easygoing magnificence lies a narrative that has formed the village for hundreds of years: the story of pottery.
Locals name it merely “Cliou.” For generations, the hum of potters’ wheels was the soundtrack of day by day life right here, and the entire group revolved round clay and fireplace. By the mid-Nineteenth century greater than 250 villagers have been tied to the craft. Clay diggers, woodcutters, carters, turners, and kiln masters every performed their half. Youngsters helped put together clay, whereas males stacked pine bundles for the large kilns that burned day and evening.
The clay itself got here from close by quarries. Dug with shovels and picks, it was washed, sifted, and left to settle in huge swimming pools earlier than being formed into heavy blocks prepared for the potter’s wheel. The kilns have been huge, some holding as much as 20 cubic meters, and firings consumed a whole lot of bundles of pine. For 2 days and nights the flames roared, reaching an inferno sizzling sufficient to rework comfortable earth into vessels laborious as stone. When the doorways have been opened, the pots emerged glowing, their glazed surfaces gleaming within the gentle.
The glaze is what set Cliousclat aside. A mix of silica-rich clay and floor lead gave pottery a water-resistant, good end. Oxides added colour, copper for greens, manganese for deep purples, iron for reds and oranges. Designs ranged from easy rustic finishes to playful decorations scratched with nails, brushed with slip, or painted with a barolet, a small device that produced nice, flowing traces. Each bit was each helpful and exquisite, from sturdy kitchenware to swish jugs and bowls.
In 1902 Marius Anjaleras based the Fabrique de Poterie, an formidable workshop that carried Cliousclat’s craft into a brand new century. Later, in 1964, Philippe Sourdive revived it once more, introducing contemporary shapes and vibrant colours that redefined conventional glazed earthenware. Right this moment, the Fabrique is protected as a Historic Monument and stays very a lot alive. Guests can step inside, hear the wheels turning, and watch potters form clay with the identical practiced gestures as their ancestors. The cabinets are lined with ochre, inexperienced, and chestnut glazes that shine like jewels within the Provençal gentle.
But Cliousclat is greater than its pottery. It’s a bohemian village the place artists, vacationers, and meals lovers linger. There are eating places serving seasonal dishes on terraces searching to the wheat fields, guesthouses the place you may spend the evening surrounded by stone partitions and lavender-scented air, and small outlets promoting regional specialties. It’s a place the place historical past and creativity move collectively, the place you may spend the morning watching pottery take form and the night sipping wine beneath the grape-laden vines.
To go to Cliousclat is to step right into a rhythm formed by clay and fireplace, however softened by the artwork of dwelling nicely. It isn’t only a village of potters, it’s a village that is aware of how one can welcome.
Keep: La Treille Muscate
Eat: Melocoton, L’Alandier
New Pottery: La Fabrique, Poterie du Fer Rouge
Vintage Pottery from Cliousclat: Purchase On-line