Attributing unmarked costume jewellery to at least one producer or one other is smart when you are able to do it with certainty. It’s not at all times straightforward, although. After so a few years of doing jewellery analysis, I’ve realized when to place within the effort and when to simply accept issues as unmarked mysteries and allow them to go.
Have I missed some issues alongside the best way? Certain. However I’ve additionally realized that there are various cases when it’s not possible to pin a designer or firm identify to a chunk and that, different occasions, it will possibly get tough. With that in thoughts, I’m going to provide you some ideas that will help you make good attributions and know when to surrender and transfer on.
Educate Your self About Trendy Unmarked Copies
Many Asian imports primarily based on designer jewellery made through the Nineteen Eighties and ‘90s are at the moment being bought for very affordable costs via on-line sources. These filter into flea markets and thrift shops, and novice consumers mistake them for classic designs.
For instance, a buddy not too long ago identified a chunk being bought as an unmarked Joan Rivers brooch. After I in contrast that piece to a marked one listed on-line, the again building was fully totally different, the pin again wasn’t connected in the identical means, and the clasp was totally different. It was, nonetheless, similar to one she discovered on the market. For my part, the vendor didn’t adequately analysis the piece earlier than deeming it to be unsigned Joan Rivers.
The primary level in sharing this story is to not disgrace anybody for making a mistake. It occurs to everybody. However I do wish to remind classic jewellery resellers (together with myself!) that with a lot American-made costume jewellery being exported over the previous few years, it’s not shocking that we’re seeing this occur. It behooves everybody to be additional cautious earlier than attributing the sort of jewellery; particularly with mass-marketed objects like Joan Rivers designs, it’s not arduous to do.
Be taught to Acknowledge Classic Copies
Imagine it or not, there was a variety of copying amongst American costume jewellery producers within the late Thirties and ‘40s, too. One firm would knock off a profitable design, one other would make their very own model, and at last, the least costly copies would hit the market. The standard would go down every time a brand new copy was launched.
I used to be reminded of this not too long ago when pricing a Coro Craft sterling silver hen tub brooch I personal. I remembered that I purchased one years in the past at an vintage mall on a flowery card purporting it to be Coro however once I obtained it residence, I spotted it was a replica. I realized a invaluable lesson that day. Then, jewellery historian Robin Deutsch wrote a collection of articles for Costume Jewellery Collectors Int’l that expounded on the subject, and I realized much more about this follow.
The ethical of this story is that the majority firms like Trifari, Coro, and Boucher marked their jewellery again within the day. When you have one in every of their designs that isn’t marked, it may very properly be a lesser-quality copy, so be very cautious with these attributions.
Search for Different Marked Items in Units
There are occasions when just one piece in a set is marked. For example, I not too long ago purchased a pair of McClelland Barclay maple leaf costume clips made in 1940, and just one was marked. I’ve owned unsigned Schiaparelli brooches with matching marked earrings. Reja didn’t at all times mark all items in rhodium-plated jewellery units made through the late Forties and early ‘50s, both. These are all designer items that you simply be taught to acknowledge with expertise. If not the precise piece, then you definately get a really feel for the general fashion after dealing with them. Generally, you may seek for Schiaparelli earrings and discover a pair that’s a precise match to your unmarked brooch, for example.
Once you purchase an unmarked piece with design traits that ring a bell, use Google Lens to see what you may give you first. If that doesn’t yield something, do detailed searches utilizing key phrases particular to the merchandise, like unfoiled stones, cabochons, gold-plated, and so on., to discover a signed match.
Make the most of Written and On-line Assets
Jewellery made by DeLizza & Elster, generally referred to as Juliana by collectors, is a first-rate instance of jewellery totally researched by jewellery historians. Remember to try Juliana Jewellery Reference: DeLizza & Elster Identification & Value Information by Ann Mitchell Pitman within the Worthpoint Library for oodles of information. The Artwork of Juliana Jewellery by Katerina Musetti and Juliana Jewellery–The Final Technology by Paula Knutson and Karla Wacker are books which are nonetheless in print, and you’ll add them to your jewellery library as properly. Wacker additionally developed a searchable database on-line referred to as Is it Juliana Jewellery? that’s value bookmarking.
Schreiner is one other firm that’s simpler than ever to find out about relating to unmarked jewellery. Schreiner: Masters of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewellery by Carole Tanenbaum and Eve Townsend is a must have library useful resource, however it’s also possible to find out about unmarked Schreiner brooches via one in every of my articles: “Figuring out Unmarked Costume Jewellery: Schreiner Brooches.” There’s additionally a Schreiner jewellery database at Schreinery.com with detailed photographs from dozens of collectors that may be very helpful for analysis.
Know When It’s Not possible to Attribute
Many various costume jewellery makers (referred to as jobbers within the business) manufactured wares for numerous manufacturers. For instance, Weiss bought jewellery from these firms, and so did many different jewellery entrepreneurs and shops. Subsequently, it’s very tough to name one thing unmarked Weiss (regardless that folks do it on a regular basis). Kramer is one other firm that’s arduous to attribute with regards to unmarked designs.
Be very cautious to hurry to a conclusion when researching unmarked jewellery, and remember that the analysis of different sellers must be verified when poaching particulars from on-line listings. With some care, research, and a dedication to signify objects as precisely as doable, you can also make more cash whereas constructing a fame as a reliable vendor.
Pamela Siegel is a contract author and writer who has been educating collectors for greater than twenty years. Along with three books on subjects regarding antiques and collectibles, she ceaselessly shares her experience via on-line writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela can also be the co-founder of Costume Jewellery Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Stylish Antiques by Pamela.
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