Go Figure, Reja Costume Jewelry Dazzles Collectors

Some people amass fascinating collections of costume jewellery figurals that simply boggle the thoughts with their creativity. I’ve by no means been one among them. Not that I haven’t considered it, and I do have a couple of that fall into that class in my assortment. However, by and huge, I’ve all the time had a catch, get pleasure from for some time, and launch coverage on the subject of shopping for and promoting these superb little beauties. That’s how I’ve been capable of additional the hunt all these years.

As I used to be lately perusing pictures of bijou I’ve offered, I recalled that a few of my all-time favorites have been Reja designs. It’s not a reputation you’ll hear usually compared to Trifari or Coro, as an example. However on the subject of severe gathering, the professionals certainly relish proudly owning Reja designs. The corporate’s background is fascinating, too, so I’ll fill you in on what I learn about that earlier than delving into extra particulars concerning the costume jewellery made beneath this model.

A Transient Historical past of Reja

Let me preface the start of this quick historical past lesson by saying that through the late Nineteen Thirties and all through the Forties, costume jewellery corporations within the U.S. had been rivals. A few of these rivalries had been friendlier than others, however there have been various lawsuits being filed when names had been deceptive, or designs had been being copied. That’s not essentially a very good factor typically, however court docket filings, patents, commercials and bulletins in commerce periodicals from again within the day assist jewellery historians piece collectively the tales of long-defunct jewellery manufacturers.

With that out of the best way, we all know that Solomon Finkelstein established Deja Costume Jewellery, Inc. in 1939. No, that’s not a typo; Reja originated as Deja. The agency primarily based in New York Metropolis had a showroom on Fifth Avenue and a producing facility on West forty seventh Avenue. One other firm superior collectors know nicely—Du Jay, Inc.—alleged the identify of Finkelstein’s enterprise was an excessive amount of like theirs and a New York court docket agreed in October of 1940. Finkelstein modified the identify of his agency from Deja to Reja and made a associated announcement in Ladies’s Put on Each day in early 1941, as famous in American Costume Jewellery: Artwork & Business, 1935-1950 by Carla Ginelli Brunialti and Roberto Brunialti.

So, for those who run throughout Deja jewellery, you possibly can precisely date it from 1939 to 1940. There was a interval of overlap the place preexisting Deja jewellery was re-struck with Reja marks within the months when the identify transition was happening, as additionally famous within the Brunialtis’ e book, so there’s an opportunity you may run throughout that as nicely. What you’ll see most frequently, although, are Reja marked items comprised of 1941 by way of December 1953 when the agency introduced its insolvency.

Extra on Deja Jewellery

The early items made by Finkelstein’s enterprise marked Deja or Deja Unique had been brooches. Lots of them depict flowers; some had been even stamped Fleurs denoting the road identify. They’re fairly sufficient, however not so completely different than gold plated and enameled pot steel flowers with rhinestone accents made by many different corporations round 1940. One exception is a tussy mussy brooch that has a nicely that may maintain water and a flower bud or two. That’s not one thing many corporations marketed throughout this era, and discovering one marked Deja is a really uncommon accomplishment.

Different Deja pin designs fluctuate from dancers to canine and arms to birds. These small items may be good sufficient, and are definitely collectible, however they’re not fairly as interesting or well-known because the later designs marked Reja. In truth, some sellers will use each names in on-line itemizing titles to attract consideration to them.

The Inventive Designs Marked Reja

You possibly can say that Finkelstein didn’t miss a beat when he took his enterprise from Deja to Reja, however it is likely to be extra correct to say that he upped his recreation. For my part, because the Forties progressed so did Reja’s designs.

The “Africana” line is among the most well-documented collection of figural brooches and clips produced by the corporate, and so they’re additionally coveted by collectors. The tough half is that almost all of those items are what we consider as blackamoors within the jewellery group and many individuals within the common populace don’t see carrying them as politically appropriate anymore. They normally depict folks of excessive tribal standing, nevertheless, so I (and lots of of my gathering pals) don’t see them as derogatory. A number of of Reja’s Africana designs together with “Ubangi,” “Witch Physician,” and “Nubian Head” had been patented in 1946 and appeared in {a magazine} commercial for the gathering that very same 12 months. These are a number of the most extremely valued Reja designs and so they don’t come available on the market often.

Reja’s “Gardenesque” designs, one other in style collection, appeared in a Vogue commercial in 1947. The tagline for the gathering reads “poised within the poetry of jewels,” and options a number of completely different kinds of vases holding elaborate flower preparations adorned with fake gems. These beautiful items had been made from sterling silver, and a few had been gold washed with enameled accents. Matching earrings had been accessible, however the earrings are usually tougher to search out than Gardenesque brooches and pin clips (additionally known as fur clips by collectors).

All through the Forties, sketches of intelligent Reja designs appeared in Ladies’s Put on Each day. Unique birds, gazelles, masks, clowns and a “Man from Mars” king brooch had been amongst them. A lot of the different Reja items I’ve personally owned weren’t documented on this manner that I’m conscious of, however they’re simply as pleasant. I’m notably keen on a number of sea life designs, together with a whimsical mermaid, and a really fancy stork that got here with matching earrings.

Not all of the items of Reja I’ve had the pleasure of passing alongside to others had been signed, nevertheless. I knew they had been genuine Reja as a result of one of many items in a collection supplied that clue. In a single occasion, they weren’t figurals, however an identical necklace, bracelet, brooch, and earrings; solely the brooch was marked. These had been rhodium plated items embellished with unfoiled clear stones. The corporate produced different bracelet and necklace kinds, though figural brooches had been all the time the agency’s bread and butter by way of each manufacturing and creativity. 

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